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BORA BORA: Paradise Found on French Polynesian Island By Agnes Huff, PhD and Connie Mandles
When the pace of life in the fast lane accelerates to supersonic speed and the doctor orders rest and relaxation, many people consider a tropical destination like Hawaii. However, if you truly want to escape from the frenzied daily stress, head for the ultimate retreat from civilization, the tiny island of Bora Bora in French Polynesia. Although it seems somewhat like a cliche', Bora Bora evokes images of solitude, romance and breathtaking beauty, virtually synonymous with the ideal of an earthly paradise. Ever since 19th-century romantics began spreading the word about this Garden of Eden in the South Pacific, it has been a magnet for travelers of all stripes, from missionaries to vagabonds, artists to writers, honeymooners to stressed-out executives. Everyone searching for a bit of heaven on earth is invariably seduced by the islands' magic. Worlds away in ambience and attitude, getting to Bora Bora is not difficult. Located 4,100 miles from Los Angeles, non-stop flights on Air France and Air Tahiti Nui to the capital city of Papeete take just over eight hours. From there, it's a one hour inter-island flight to Bora Bora. In a relatively brief span of time cocktails, dinner and a nap, followed by a morning tropical punch we exchanged life in the fast lane for a much more leisurely and relaxing existence. Although Captain Cook laid claim to the islands of the South Pacific for the English, Great Britain was reluctant to burden itself with additional far-flung colonies. The region was ripe for the taking, and in 1842, France seized Tahiti and declared a protectorate over it. Today, French Polynesia is officially a French "overseas territory," an integral part of France, where one finds not only the French joie de vivre, but the legendary laissez-faire attitude of native Tahitians.
By all accounts, the first explorers who stumbled upon these lush
tropical islands were greeted by canoes full of smiling Tahitians,
many of whom were beautiful young women wearing only grass skirts.
Thanks to the Protestant missionaries who arrived on the scene in
the late 1700's to clothe and convert the islanders, today's travelers
are offered a much more subtle welcome. Nevertheless, we were astounded
by the incredible beauty of this island paradise, and even more
so by the gracious and friendly nature of the Tahitian people. The
Society Islands, including Tahiti and the Windward Islands of Moorea,
Maiao and Tetiaroa, and the Leeward Islands of Bora Bora, Huahine,
Raiatea and Maupiti, are the most frequently visited. Bora Bora,
which lies about 150 miles northwest of Tahiti, and is worlds away
from the hustle and bustle of the capital, is (in our humble opinion),
the most strikingly beautiful island. Its exquisite turquoise-colored
lagoons and fringe of barrier coral reefs encircle the 17 square
mile island like a ring. The stories of Bora Bora's beauty are,
of course, legendary, fueled primarily by the writings of James
Michener, who called it the most beautiful island in the world.
This 'Pearl of the Pacific' is dominated by Pahia and Otemanu, towering
volcanic mountains, whose basalt peaks are often shrouded in clouds.
Due to its remote island location, everything is brought to Bora Bora by air or sea, making French Polynesia a relatively expensive destination. However, we found the best vacation values are available through specialized Tahiti tour companies, who are intimately familiar with the destination, and can suggest the perfect itinerary to fit any vacation budget. Our choice of a 7-day Tahiti Legends tour package to Bora Bora allowed us to take full advantage of maximum rest and relaxation during our brief stay. The sun was setting when we landed at Bora Bora Airport, situated
on Moto Mute, an outlying flat island on the northern edge of the
barrier reef. We celebrated our escape to paradise with a close-up
view of two side-by-side mountain peaks, beckoning us. The airstrip
is a World War II legacy, built by the U.S. Navy during their "friendly
invasion" of the island. Although Bora Bora never saw combat during
the war, it was a major refueling base on the America-to-Australia
supply line. A translucent, multi-colored lagoon, countless motus
(miniature islands) and a vast coral reef surround the island like
a protective necklace, shielding it from the pounding Pacific surf.
Teavanui (the great pass) provides the only navigable entrance through
the barrier reef.
Arriving at the Bora Bora Moana Beachcomber Parkroyal near Matira Point, we were treated to traditional Tahitian hospitality: plenty of smiles, cool refreshing towels and delicious tropical welcome drinks, before being escorted to our over-water bungalows. Perfectly situated for the utmost privacy, our thatch-roofed, Tahitian-style quarters were more lovely than we imagined. The generous-sized living area, outfitted with a glass-topped table that doubles as an aquarium, and a deck with steps that lead to the crystal blue lagoon, were perfect to feed the fish or take a sunset swim. Our bedroom boasted a king-sized bed and a generous bathroom with double sinks, and in typical tropical style, vanilla vines draped the tub and shower for the ultimate in luxury. Most importantly, we felt happily marooned on our own private piece of paradise, with the lagoon all to ourselves. The bed was particularly inviting, with its coverlet strewn daily with fresh flowers and palm fronds, arranged in artistic designs. Typical of beachfront accommodations in Polynesia, there was no air-conditioning; but a ceiling fan and the delicious ocean breezes more than compensated. Included in our tour package were morning and evening meals, which we found to be quite good. Our daily buffet-style breakfast offered a variety of fresh tropical fruits, cold cuts and cheeses, assorted breads, cereals, and juices, as well as made-to-order eggs, omelettes and pancakes. What a nice way to start the day, drinking a fresh cup of coffee amongst the fresh flowers and gentle breezes, and gazing at the sunswept beach. This change of pace is just what the doctor ordered! Nightly dinner menus varied, with one evening offering a traditional Tahitian-style barbecue featuring savory chicken, beef, lamb and sausages. Especially delicious are the local fish dishes, like mahi mahi wrapped in banana leaves, and of course, the decadent desserts are virtually impossible to resist. On several evenings, Polynesian-style shows entertain and delight hotel guests. Our favorite was the daring Tahitian fire-dance demonstration, complete with hot flying torches, expertly juggled by our native performers.
One evening, we ventured out of our hotel for dinner at the famous Bloody Mary's Restaurant & Bar. As advertised, the setting was just like a movie set. In fact, it was built by stagehands who worked on the 1977 flop, Hurricane. Topped by a thatched roof, with a fine white sand floor (by all means, take off your shoes), it's a great place to come for an evening of fun. Butcher-block tables are made of coconut-palm lumber, and the seats are sections of palm trunks cut into stools. Careful! They tip over easily, especially if you've had one too many Mai Tais. World-renowned for their special blend of Bloody Marys, the cozy wooden bar serves a full range of refreshing tropical drinks, all of them properly intoxicating. Bora Bora's translucent lagoon offers every visitor something the best resort pools in the world can't provide the living ocean. Easily accessible to beginning snorkelers or scuba divers, there are all varieties of sea life: corals, tropical reef fish, sting rays, octopuses, barracuda, and even sharks. Especially memorable was our outrigger canoe excursion for the shark and stingray feeding expedition. Although the shark feeding was a bit intimidating for us, the sight of 30 sting rays swimming towards our boat for the daily feeding was exhilarating. These gentle giants measure from two to four feet, and as we stood in the shallow water on the reef among them, they appeared to genuinely enjoy interacting with us. Despite our best intentions at home, we never seem to find time for scuba classes and dive certification, yet we yearn for such underwater adventures. On Bora Bora, it's possible to do a semi-private recreational dive in calm, pristine blue waters, where even novice snorkelers like ourselves, feel completely safe and comfortable with our dive master, a no-nonsense Frenchman and certified instructor. Equipped with well-fitting masks, wetsuits and tanks, our equipment even provided the technology for our instructor to communicate with us underwater. We were so delighted and proud that our so-called beginner's dive was not in a sissy swimming pool, but in the open South Pacific ocean, full of the most beautiful coral formations and hundreds of colorful reef fish. Our dive took us about 25 feet down, with exceptional visibility. Despite the fact that we were supposed to be relaxing, we found it difficult not to take advantage of the many exciting outdoor activities offered on the island. At our hotel's recreation desk, we booked ourselves for tandem jet skiing around the island, an adventurous 4x4 Island Safari, scuba diving excursion and some more boating (take your pick from canoes, outriggers, motorized hobie cats and more). It seems bicycling, parasailing, water skiing, hiking and windsurfing will just have to wait until we return! And of course, we simply couldn't resist trying our hand at a little retail therapy. Bora Bora's main road is filled with stores, boutiques and galleries, as are the major hotels. The town of Vaitape, only a few hundred yards long, probably offers the most concentrated shopping area, although mostly of the souvenir variety. For inexpensive and unusual Tahitian souvenirs, be sure to check out the Centre Artisanal de Bora Bora, located near the wharf. Looking for real keepsakes, we embarked on some serious shopping ? buying Tahitian black pearls. These highly-prized, luminescent spheres adorn just about every type of jewelry: pendants, earrings, bracelets and more! The apparent quality and unique design of these pearls are impressive, and the sales pitch is low-key, and definitely helpful. After considerable comparison-shopping, we couldn't resist an exquisite bracelet of pearls, ranging in color from champagne, to gray, to green, along with matching earrings, and a stunning baroque pearl and gold-link bracelet. The best surprise of our shopping foray was when we learned that our rather substantial pearl purchases would be exempt from U.S. Customs duty. Since Tahitian black pearls are native to French Polynesia, which is considered a developing nation, US residents do not pay any duty, resulting in even more substantial savings for shoppers. After a whirlwind week in the islands, it was suddenly time for a reality check and our return trip home. Reluctantly packing our bags, we were sad to be leaving our comfortable over-water bungalows on such a beautiful island, and wishing we could spend more than a few days in paradise. While our vacation was nearly over, our spirits were buoyed by fond memories of a wonderful time. In our effort to capture the indescribable beauty of Bora Bora, we took hours of video and hundreds of photographs, not to mention the solidly ingrained impressions in our minds. And of course, we have daily reminders of our much-needed vacation as we put on our exquisite black pearl adornments. They will continue to look fabulous, long after our Tahitian tans fade! Agnes Huff, PhD and Connie Mandles are Los Angeles-based travel writers for Girls On The Go, a subsidiary of Agnes Huff Communications Group. Girls On The Go offers a full range of travel writing and related services. |
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